The Côte d'Azur
The Côte d’Azur’s reputation precedes it. Seaside spots don’t get glitzier or more glamorous. Beloved by socialites, writers, and artists for eons, the French Riviera’s extending craggy coastline is a, if not the, jet-set destination. Brigitte Bardot has a lot to answer for.
From rosé and dancing on the beach to three-hour lunches amidst fragrant lavender fields, this stretch has many sides to it. So where to start? Arty Antibes? Well-heeled Monte Carlo? We’ve covered it all.
Credit: Reuben Rohard
Credit: Vanessa Beaumont
EXPERT TIPS
Vanessa Beaumont
Author Vanessa Beaumont’s debut book, The Other Side of Paradise, launched this year. Its heroine goes to the South of France, and so do we with Beaumont’s travel tips in tow…
PACKING TIPS: A wide-brimmed straw hat, a great beach wrap, a classic one-piece, and some milk thistle. The rosé, though irresistible at the time, can be a little wearing on the liver!
BOOK TO READ BEFORE DEPARTURE: I can only, of course, hope you’ll pack The Other Side of Paradise, but alongside that it’s got to be Tender is the Night by F. Scott Fitzgerald, and if you want an account of those Americans of the Lost Generation who helped make the Riviera the one we know today, Everybody Was So Young by Amanda Vaill; Bonjour Tristesse by Françoise Sagan is also a slim, gem of a Riviera classic.
FAVOURITE HOTEL: The Colombe d’Or in Saint Paul de Vence for its history, the art, the style, the Calder mobile by the pool, and the restaurant spread beneath the shade of the fig trees. Given my novel, I have to put Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc too – the hotel that in 1923 was persuaded to stay open by the Murphys et al, and so began the world’s love affair with its brilliant white building set against the umbrella pines, and its pool cut into the rocks, forever immortalized by Slim Aarons.
MEMORABLE MEALS: Banh-Hoi, Saint Tropez – tables line a perfect cobbled back street in the prettiest part of Saint Tropez, up in the old town. Vietnamese/Japanese with unbeatable Nems. Taking my children to Sénéquier for the insanely delicious (if eye-wateringly expensive) croissants and oranges pressés on a Sunday morning; no one is up yet so the town is still sleepy and quiet.
THE DRINK TO ORDER: The aptly named Paradiso at Club 55; champagne and fresh strawberries whizzed up to perfection.
BAR OF CHOICE: You can’t beat the rooftop bar at Byblos for people watching before you descend into the chaos below at Les Caves.
FAVORITE SHOP: The fabulous épicerie, La Fromagerie du Marché, in Place aux Herbes in Saint Tropez. The best anchoïade, tapenade, olives, salamis (also to get to it, you have to walk through what must be one of the most elegant fish markets in the world complete with mosaic tiled walls and marble slabs teeming with langoustines and crevettes).
WELLNESS TREATMENT TO TRY: I am afraid I am too much of a cat that needs to stretch out in the sun to try these when I am there. I’d rather save them for when I’m back home in rainy England!
Seaside spots don’t get glitzier or more glamorous.
STAY
Modernist structures and romantic châteaus are happy bedfellows on the French Riviera.
SAVOR
There’s no shortage of great restaurants to tuck into on the Riviera. Bon appétit.
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chevalblanc.com
Plage de la Bouillabaisse, 83990 Saint Tropez
Phone: +33(0)494559100Dine under the Tropezian sun at La Terrasse. While Cheval Blanc Saint Tropez is perhaps best known for its three-star Michelin restaurant, Vague d’Or, don’t bypass this charming lunchtime spot when in town. Here, Arnaud Donckele’s menus are influenced by Provence and use best-quality ingredients – munch on lobster tail as you look out over the Bay of Saint Tropez.
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la-colombe-dor.com
Address: 06570 Saint-Paul de Vence
Phone: +37798067623Opening in 1920 as a café bar called ‘Chez Robinson’, the property later extended, becoming a small inn with three rooms. Today, La Colombe d'Or is best known for its art (acquired from the 1940s onwards). There’s a ceramic Fernand Leger on the terrace and a large piece by Sean Scully in the swimming-pool area. Diners can check out the collection while feasting on traditional Provençal dishes chosen from beautifully scribed menus. In the summer, the garden terrace is where you want to be seated.
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montecarlosbm.com
Address: Place du Casino, 98000 Monaco
Phone: +37798067623In business for 150 years, Café de Paris, on the Place du Casino, needs little introduction. Call in any time of day – for a morning coffee, a crêpe Suzette as lunchtime creeps in, or a nightcap as you exit the casino. The brasserie is particularly charming, with interior’s reimagined by David Collins Studio. Book a table at the upstairs terrace and dine on French classics.
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club55.fr
Address: 43 Boulevard Patch, 83350 Ramatuelle
Phone: +33(0)494555555On Pampelonne Plage, Club 55 is the lunchtime table to get in high season. Gather for oodles of rosé and some authentic seaside cuisine in simple surroundings. Service at this popular beach restaurant runs between around 12.15pm and 4pm; reservations are essential.
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restaurantlaguerite.com
Address: Île Sainte-Marguerite, 06400 Cannes
Phone: +33(0)493434930Great DJs and better food fuel days at this popular waterside restaurant, accessible via boat only. Founded in 1902, La Guérite began life as a humble fisherman’s cabin on the small island of Île Sainte-Marguerite. Today, the restaurant and beach club draw quite a crowd, with both requiring advanced booking.
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byblos.com
Address: 20 Avenue Paul Signac, 83990 Saint Tropez
Phone: +33494566800Dine under the trees on the terrace of the Byblos Hotel at the colourful Cucina. With an Italian sensibility, and cuisine to match, try the confit beef cheek paccheri and linguini alle vongole. For dolci, it’s got to be the chocolate pizza… and maybe a serving of the tiramisu too.
Credit: La Terrasse
Credite: Cucina, Byblos
Beloved by socialites, writers, and artists for eons…
EXPLORE
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Dreamt up by Baroness Béatrice de Rothschild in the early 1900s, the sea-facing Ephrussi de Rothschild is a treasure to behold. In Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, the villa’s gardens are as alluring as its decadent interiors. Roses perfume the property all summer long.
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Perhaps better known as the Matisse Chapel, La Chapelle du Rosaire is a tribute to Monique Bourgeois, Henri Matisse’s nurse. The chapel, located in Vence, is a thing of beauty – its stained-glass windows, composed of blues, yellows, and greens, are particularly striking.
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Close to Nice and Monaco, take an afternoon to explore the medieval village of Èze. Walk along its narrow streets and discover the ruins of a 12th-century castle and exotic gardens.
Credit: Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, Hugo Richard
Credit: Minuty, © Herve Fabre
SHOP
K.Jacques
Pick up a pair of Tropéziennes at K.Jacques. In business since 1933, their beautifully crafted sandals will be the perfect summer accessory wherever you roam.
Château Minuty
Neighboring the villages of Gassin and Ramatuelle, overlooking the Gulf of Saint Tropez, visit Château Minuty to sample its best bottles. ‘One of the last estates in the Côtes de Provence where the grapes are harvested entirely by hand to ensure their perfect integrity’, where better to toast to your holiday?
WELLNESS TIP
Lily of the Valley
Set within the Cap Lardier estate, wellness hotel Lily of the Valley offers a quartet of programmes (weight loss, detox, sport, or better aging) year-round. The hotel’s Shape Club is an invigorating place to while away the hours/days/weeks, with an impressive (rather pretty) gym space, multiple treatment rooms, and a spa menu embracing age-old practices alongside recent innovations. Comfortable bedrooms and suites are designed by Philippe Starck and the hotel’s restaurant caters well to those who want to eat healthy, delicious food. In La Croix Valmer, the surrounding nature-rich setting further aids relaxation and resets.
Credit: Lily of the Valley
PACKING LIST
Tune into the style codes of the French Riviera with our packing list…
• A pretty frock
• A natty dress
• A sweet raffia bag
ON OUR RADAR
Hôtel du Couvent (a hotel by Perseus Properties) opens in Nice this June. We cannot wait to experience the Roman bath, outdoor cinema, and acres of gardens. Bookings are now open.
The sea-facing Ephrussi de Rothschild is a treasure to behold.
IMMERSE YOURSELF
PLAYLIST: Transport yourself to the Cote d'Azur with our South of France playlist, available on Spotify.
READ: Tender is the Night, The Other Side of Paradise
WATCH: La Piscine, To Catch a Thief
A Glimpse of the Côte d’Azur curated by Gilly Hopper
PLANNING SERVICES
Let Glimpse founder Jordan Rhodes help you plan your next vacation.
As an advisor independently affiliated with Brownell Travel, a luxury, Forbes endorsed, Virtuoso Agency, Jordan has a whole team helping plan her clients’ vacations.